MG Midget buyer's guide

A long-established classic with a huge following, the MG Midget is simple, entertaining and unusually easy to support. Here’s how to buy one

Images: James Howe

The MG Midget is to many the archetypal classic small sports car. Front-engined and rear-wheel drive, it boasts simple mechanicals, excellent parts availability and plenty of fun for what can still be an attractive price. It’s little surprise that it has developed such a loyal following.

The Midget was not a clean-sheet design. It was essentially an updated Austin-Healey Sprite, a car launched in 1958 with much of its running gear derived from the Austin A35. The revamped Mk2 Sprite arrived in 1961, with a remodelled rear end to include proper access to the boot and the ‘Frogeye’ clamshell with its famous upright headlights superseded by conventional wings and a separate bonnet.

A badge-engineered MG version was inevitable. The Sprite was already made at MG’s Abingdon factory, and the octagon badge remained synonymous with small sports cars. MG reinforced the connection by reviving the Midget name first used on the M Type of 1929.

What made the Midget important was the way it kept the traditional British sports-car formula accessible as the market around it changed. It used familiar BMC components, a monocoque shell and very little unnecessary complexity, so the money went into the things that mattered: light weight, direct steering, rear-wheel drive and an open cockpit.

That simplicity also gave it an identity distinct from the larger MGB. The Midget was never about effortless high-speed touring; it was about making modest speeds entertaining. A good one feels tiny, alert and eager, with a driving position and short-throw gearshift that make even an ordinary B-road feel like an event. The Triumph Spitfire offered a similarly simple route into sports-car ownership, but the MG’s enormous parts network and Abingdon heritage gave it a character of its own.

The 1275cc Mk3 is the version many enthusiasts regard as the sweet spot, combining traditional chrome-bumper looks, a rev-happy A-Series engine and the improved wind-up windows, semi-elliptic rear suspension and folding hood introduced as the car matured. The later 1500 changed the character with its Triumph engine, all-synchromesh gearbox, raised ride height and impact bumpers, but it also made the Midget easier to use in some respects and remains the value choice in the range.

More important for ownership is what happened after production ended. The Sprite and Midget became staple club classics, supported by specialists, an enormous knowledge base and exceptional parts availability. That makes the Midget one of the easiest ways to experience a traditional small British sports car without taking on something obscure or difficult to maintain.

Values

The Midget remains relatively affordable by traditional British sports-car standards, but values vary significantly according to age, specification and condition. The 1500 is still the cheapest way in: around £4000–5000 should buy a solid, mechanically healthy car, while £8000–10,000 is enough for an excellent example.

Chrome-bumper cars are generally more valuable. A usable Mk2 or Mk3 typically sits above the equivalent 1500, while very good 1275cc cars can reach £10,000 or more. Early Mk1s, particularly smart or highly original examples, and desirable round-wheel-arch 1275s sit at the top of the normal market, with the best cars capable of reaching the mid-teens.

Across the range, structural condition matters more than chasing a particular badge or model year. A superficially cheap car needing serious sill, floor or spring-mount repairs can consume far more than the difference between it and a sound example.

Bodywork

Sadly, many a Midget can be poorer than it looks thanks to the monocoque structure having plenty of nooks and crannies to foster corrosion. Starting at the front, the bonnet is prone to flexing quite heavily which can lead to corrosion, while the lower front panel and the front wings can also suffer. On later 1960s cars the sidelight position changed, so check they match on both sides if originality matters.

Moving back, the rear of the front wings can trap mud where they meet the top of the sill, rotting the area away along with much of the surrounding metalwork. Also check the entire A-pillar area and scuttle, along with the ‘A’ posts, which are once again a stressed area and a water trap.

The inner and outer sills provide a great deal of the strength, so check along their length and at each end inside the wheelarches. Lift the carpets to check the inners, also checking the footwells and floorpans for rust and removing the jacking point plugs on the outside to inspect what you can see of the inner sill there. If the doors drag or nip on the sills it could be due to badly fitted replacement sills or that everything is so rotten the body is flexing. The gaps should be equal and the door should open and close easily. While you’re at it, pay particular attention along the door bottoms and the front lower corners.

At the back end, check the rear spring mounting points are in good condition, especially on early Midgets where the stress is all taken up in one area on each side. Look for collapsed spring box mountings or an uneven ride height as an indication of trouble. Rear wings and inner arches often rust, and pay particular attention to the double-skinned area behind the back of the rear wing where it comes up to meet the boot floor. Finally, check the boot floor itself, the spare wheel well and the rear panel.

Thankfully, almost everything is available new from British Motor Heritage, including a complete new bodyshell. A full shell is a major outlay, though, so a seriously rotten car needs careful sums before you decide whether extensive panel replacement or re-shelling makes financial sense.

Engine and transmission

Before the introduction of the 1500, Midgets and Sprites were fitted with the trusty BMC A-Series, ranging from the 948cc unit of the early cars to the larger 1275cc version. It’s a hardy unit that should last beyond 75,000 miles before the bottom-end clearances get a little loose and the valve train gets noisy. A higher-pitched tapping noise from the top of the engine usually indicates badly adjusted tappets and may simply mean re-setting them, while a lower-down rattle normally means a rebuild is imminent.

Check for oil pressure building quickly on start-up to around 60psi, dropping to no less than 45psi when warm. Any less is a sign of wear, especially if accompanied by drumming noises from the bottom end. Look out for smoke too; grey or black smoke from the exhaust is usually mixture or timing related, but blue smoke under load can indicate worn bores or piston rings, with a rebuild the only cure. A proper rebuild is a significant expense, so price a tired engine accordingly.

If it’s blue smoke on the overrun or when accelerating after a period at idle, it could be worn valve stem seals or guides. Excessive white smoke typically points to head-gasket trouble. This is often caused by overheating, so check that the radiator is in good condition and the coolant is clean.

The Triumph engine in the Midget 1500 is prone to main-bearing and big-end bearing failure after comparatively modest mileages due to the size of its crank journals. The other weakness is the crankshaft thrust bearings, which can wear rapidly and kill the engine. Check that the engine revs don’t drop and that the crankshaft pulley doesn’t move forward when the clutch is depressed. The 1500 is also known for running hotter than the A-Series because of its narrower air intake, so cooling-system condition deserves particular attention; upgraded radiators and oil coolers are common.

The Mk1 Midgets have the BMC ‘smooth-case’ gearbox with rather fragile cone-type synchromesh, for which some parts are harder to obtain. The later ‘ribbed-case’ gearboxes have baulk-ring synchromesh, are stronger and have vastly better parts availability. Bear in mind they still don’t have synchromesh on first gear.

In both cases listen for drones from worn bearings or vibrations and noise from worn or chipped gears. Note that first and reverse are straight-cut and so will make a whining noise even in perfect condition. The Triumph unit in the 1500 has full synchromesh and gives little trouble, although the clutch is prone to juddering. Like the later A-Series gearbox, it can be rebuilt without too much drama.

Suspension, steering and brakes

The Midget’s front suspension needs regular lubrication – there are three or four grease nipples per side depending on the age of the car – with the correct waterproof grease or heavy oil rather than regular LM grease. If this is neglected the front steering uprights and the fulcrum pins will wear quickly. With the car safely off the ground, check for free play; any movement could also be down to worn wheel bearings or track-rod ends. Beyond the latter and split gaiters, the steering is largely trouble-free and should have very little slack in it.

All Midgets use lever-arm dampers on all four corners, which should be bounce-tested and inspected for leaks. At the rear, the springs can sag and may require re-setting or replacement, so look to see if the car is sitting level. If the ride is very jarring and the back end seems to ‘hop’ then the springs may have seized because of rust between the leaves. The rear axle usually gives little or no trouble but listen for a noisy differential.

Early Mk1s had drums all round – check for leaking wheel cylinders and make sure the car pulls up straight and true. The later disc/drum system is reliable but check for worn or scored discs and out-of-adjustment rear drums. Any need to pump the brakes could mean a tired master cylinder, but replacements are easily sourced.

Interior and electrics

Perhaps the most important thing to do when buying a Midget is check that you can fit inside. But should you notice worn trim, don’t worry too much as almost everything can be replaced. The trim changed slightly almost from model to model, so if you are looking for an accurately detailed car, your research should be thorough. The main difficulty can be sourcing less common colours such as Autumn Leaf unless you buy a complete new set. Original steering wheels for earlier cars can be hard to find too.

Electrics can cause issues as with any classic of this period, but components are easily sourced and complete looms are available. In most cases problems can be traced to poor earths or failing bullet connectors. Check the convertible hood to make sure it seals properly. Leaks aren’t uncommon, but leaving a damaged hood unattended can eventually contribute to rust issues inside the car.

Verdict

Small, light and cheap to run, there’s much to love about the MG Midget. It’s a British sports car done right, with bags of character and huge fun to be had behind the wheel. Parts support is excellent and specialist help is easy to find, while MG’s huge club following means there is no shortage of technical knowledge or social support.

For many buyers the 1275cc Mk3 is the most appealing all-rounder, retaining the traditional looks while offering the most developed A-Series specification. The 1500 is less delicate in character but makes a strong value case and its all-synchromesh gearbox is useful in regular traffic.

If size is an issue, an MGB is the obvious alternative. But if you are a keen driver and want the most direct version of the traditional MG experience, the smaller Midget is hard to beat. Buy on body condition first and specification second, and it remains one of the simplest and most entertaining routes into classic sports-car ownership.