Toyota MR2 Mk1 buyer's guide

Light, mid-engined and powered by a jewel of a twin-cam engine, the first Toyota MR2 remains one of the most appealing sports cars of its era. Here’s how to buy one

Toyota has something of a history with sports cars, beginning in the 1960s with the 2000GT and continuing the following decade via models like the Celica and Supra. It was in the late 1970s, however, that the company embarked upon an exciting new project aimed at creating a compact, affordable mid-engined sports car.

What became the MR2 was a clever exercise in making exotic-car ideas work with mass-production hardware. Toyota used the 1.6-litre 4A-GE engine and other components from the contemporary Corolla, but repositioned them behind the cabin in a lightweight two-seater shell. The result was a car that offered mid-engined balance and sharp responses without the cost, temperament or fragility usually associated with such a layout.

Seiichi Yamauchi’s crisp wedge styling, complete with pop-up headlamps, was clearly influenced by the Fiat X1/9, and suited the engineering perfectly. With 44/56 weight distribution and a kerb weight of less than a tonne, the MR2 Mk1 was light and agile, while racing driver Dan Gurney was involved in development and Lotus had a hand in suspension development. Toyota was plainly serious about making the car entertaining rather than merely unusual.

Contributing to the enjoyment was the rev-hungry nature of its 16-valve fuel-injected unit – good for 122bhp at 6600rpm. In such a light car that was enough for 0-60mph in around eight seconds and a top speed of 124mph, but the figures only tell part of the story: the engine’s willingness to rev and the immediacy of the chassis are central to the appeal.

The MR2 was important because it arrived at a time when affordable traditional sports cars were thin on the ground and hot hatchbacks had become the default route to inexpensive performance. Toyota showed that a small two-seat sports car could still be viable if it combined sophisticated layout, everyday usability and dependable mass-market engineering. The Honda CRX approached the same brief from a different direction, and few rivals could match the MR2’s mid-engined character.

Japanese-market cars were also offered with the 145bhp supercharged 4A-GZE engine, and a number have reached the UK as personal imports. For most buyers, though, the naturally aspirated 4A-GE is the defining engine: responsive, durable and perfectly matched to the car’s size and weight.

Values

The Mk1 MR2 is no longer a bargain-basement sports car, largely because corrosion has removed so many ordinary examples from the market. Around £7000 is a realistic starting point for a sound, usable UK car, while £9000-10,000 should buy a very good example with solid bodywork, tidy trim and a decent history.

Exceptional low-mileage or unusually original cars can move beyond that, with the best naturally aspirated examples comfortably into five figures. Japanese-market supercharged cars occupy a more specialist niche and values depend heavily on originality, provenance and the quality of any import or restoration work.

Projects still appear for much less, but the apparent saving can disappear quickly once structural corrosion is uncovered. The safest approach is to buy the best shell you can afford and treat strong mechanicals as a bonus rather than a reason to overlook rust.

Bodywork

Rust proved to be something of an MR2 Mk1 problem, so it pays to be conscientious when checking a potential purchase, especially as some of that rot can be hidden away. One such area is the crash bars that reside behind the front and rear bumpers; only by removing the bumpers can you get a proper look, and replacements can be hard to find. The sills and jacking points are also at risk of dissolving away behind the plastic covers, and again you need to remove those trims to establish the true extent of any problems. Labour costs will quickly mount if rot has spread deeper into the structure.

Returning to the front, it’s a good idea to remove the spare wheel and liner from the luggage area so you can establish the condition of the floor; do the same in the boot at the rear. While you’re there take a good look at the headlamp mechanism, which can corrode and seize up.

Careful attention also needs to be paid to the door bottoms, the bottom of the front wings, the rear wheelarches, the rear valance, and around the windscreen and front part of the roof. Blocked drain holes from the sunroof or T-bar opening can allow rust to fester there, as can clumsy windscreen replacement that’s caused damage to the weather seal, and a proper fix isn’t straightforward. The base of the A- and B-pillars is another important checkpoint, while taking a good look at the floorpan and the mountings for the rear subframe is essential. Replacement panels and repair sections are available through specialists.

Another thing worth checking is the security of the spoiler around the rear window – the fixings are prone to breaking but it’s easily sorted. Finally, you should also be sure there’s no sign of accident damage or bodged repairs, and if a car is being advertised as having been restored you’ll want to satisfy yourself it’s been done to a high standard.

Engine and transmission

Despite its high-revving nature, and the temptation to make full use of the performance, the MR2 Mk1’s four-cylinder engine can be considered pretty much bulletproof with proper care. High mileage needn’t be a deterrent if there is evidence of regular maintenance. Changing the oil and filter every 5000 miles is best, while a fresh cambelt is required every 60,000 miles or five years. It’s also worth checking whether the engine received the valve adjustment and new spark plugs specified at 60,000-mile intervals.

Naturally, you don’t want to be seeing obvious signs of exhaust smoke and it’s a good idea to spend time examining the cooling system. Check for corrosion of the radiator and the pipework that carries coolant from the front of the car to the engine, and ensure the electric cooling fans kick in as they should. It’s important that the coolant strength is correct to protect the engine from internal corrosion, while airlocks in the system can lead to overheating and head-gasket failure, so be wary if things get hot on the test drive.

A check for oil leaks is wise – trouble-spots include a failed O-ring around the distributor and a corroded sump – as is an examination of the exhaust system. Replacing a manifold is made harder by tight access, while the system itself rots, so a stainless-steel replacement is a sensible option.

A sticking idle-control valve can cause the revs to remain high but cleaning the unit can often cure the issue. More involved is a failed in-tank fuel pump: if the car won’t start this could be why, and replacement involves removing the fuel tank, so it is a job you won’t want to repeat unnecessarily.

The five-speed manual gearbox was the C50 unit from launch and the stronger C52 from 1987, and both should feel slick when changing gear. Changing the oil every two to three years is a good move. Wear or ham-fisted use can result in tired synchromesh, but it’s also worth checking that the ’box doesn’t jump out of fifth gear; it gets mentioned a lot but doesn’t appear to be especially common, although it’s sensible to include faster roads in your test drive so you can be certain.

Suspension, steering and brakes

The suspension used MacPherson struts all round and it’s a straightforward set-up that shouldn’t be suffering from major problems. Replacement damper inserts are readily available, with upgraded items from the likes of KYB an option if you prefer a firmer feel. It is worth checking for corrosion around mounting points, though, and for signs that the geometry has gone awry. Uneven tyre wear points to problems; investing in a four-wheel alignment check is money well spent.

Rattles are usually caused by worn anti-roll bar drop links, and there’s the usual chance of discovering tired and perished bushes. If you need to replace them you may want to consider polyurethane bushes, although standard-quality rubber is the better choice if originality and factory ride quality matter more than sharper responses.

In terms of the brakes, there’s little to report. Cars that spend more time parked than driving could be suffering from corroded discs and pipework and sticking calipers, but reconditioned components are available. Steering racks can also be rebuilt or replaced through specialists if wear is excessive.

Also worth mentioning is the MR2 Mk1’s potential for upgrades. A healthy example is a peach to drive, so it’s worth treading carefully before embarking on major modification. Light, reversible improvements are unlikely to spoil a good car, but originality remains an important part of the appeal of the best survivors.

Interior and electrics

It’s not exactly a big interior, so you’ll have no trouble spotting any issues with the seats, carpets and dashboard. It all wears quite well, although water leaks from the sunroof or T-bar roof won’t do materials any favours, so check for staining and mustiness. It’s advisable to tackle any water ingress as soon as it’s spotted, and replacement T-bar seals are available through specialists. Earlier cars got cloth seat trim with leather optional, while T-bar models got hide as standard; it adds extra luxury to the cabin and can be repaired or replaced, but professional re-trimming is not cheap, so check carefully for damage and split stitching.

Assuming the trim is in good shape, focus on ensuring that electrical items are performing as they should. The MR2 Mk1 is robust in this respect, but one particular item worth checking is the operation of the electric windows. It’s not that they are unusually fault-prone, but the switch pack on the driver’s door can be difficult to replace if it fails. If the central locking on an early model only operates the driver’s door from the key, that’s normal: a switch in the cabin operates the locks on both doors, while later cars use a more conventional arrangement.

Also worth checking is the operation of the electric aerial, that the heater fan works properly – the resistor is known to fail – and that the wipers aren’t suffering from a worn or broken linkage. Consider it a nice bonus if the original tool kit is still present in the front luggage compartment.

Verdict

Lightweight, huge fun to drive and sporting deeply desirable wedge styling, the Toyota MR2 Mk1 remains one of the most appealing Japanese sports cars of the 1980s. The mechanicals are generally tough, the 4A-GE engine is full of character and the mid-engined chassis gives the car an identity quite different from contemporary hot hatchbacks.

Rust is the issue that separates the worthwhile cars from the expensive mistakes. A mechanically tired but structurally sound MR2 is usually a much safer proposition than a freshly painted car concealing corrosion in its sills, pillars or suspension mounting points.

Of the three MR2 generations, the Mk1 is the least common on the market and perhaps the most distinctive. A Mk3 is easier to find and a Mazda MX-5 is more practical, but neither offers quite the same combination of compact dimensions, rev-hungry engine and mid-engined 1980s character. Buy the bodywork first and the rest of the car second.