Offering a mix of American glamour, British sporting pedigree and a famous badge, the Sunbeam Rapier was a rakish enthusiasts’ choice in the 1960s and still makes a great classic today
When it comes to sporty, glamorous coupes based on otherwise unremarkable family saloons, history often seems to begin with the Ford Capri. Certainly, the aspirational, macho Ford casts a long shadow, but the concept was not new – arguably, the Rootes Group got there first with the Sunbeam Rapier. From the 1930s, when the Rootes brothers were assembling their car-building empire, they were firm believers in badge engineering, platform sharing, brand strategies and other techniques more commonly associated with the modern motor industry, designed to make their resources go as far as possible.
It was therefore inevitable that there would be a Sunbeam version of Rootes’ new mid-size platform of the mid-1950s, codenamed ‘Audax’. The basic Hillman Minx accounted for the majority of sales and production, of course, but the Minx was only offered as a four-door saloon and had a reputation as a solid, long-lived and practical car rather than a particularly glamorous one. That was precisely the role the Rapier filled – in fact it was the first ‘Audax’ car to enter production.
Built as a two-door saloon (with pillarless doors and side windows, plus a panoramic rear screen, so it was often described as a coupe) and featuring striking two-tone paint separated by a chrome slash along the flanks, the Sunbeam Rapier certainly looked the part. While the styling of the Audax range is frequently credited to the renowned American industrial designer Raymond Loewy, his studio actually only had a consulting agreement with Rootes, and the bulk of the work was carried out in-house. That said, Loewy’s influence was evident across the range, which bore a strong resemblance to his designs for Studebaker – the Commander and the Speedster in the Rapier’s case.
It was not all style over substance – the engine was the same 1.3-litre unit used in the Minx, but with a higher compression ratio, larger carburettor and free-flow manifolds. This was soon upgraded to twin Zenith carbs, producing 67bhp at a heady 5000rpm, making it a notably brisker car than the 48bhp Minx. In a Britain without motorways, the Rapier’s 86mph top speed suited its badge perfectly. It was also well equipped, with a four-speed column-change gearbox with overdrive, a full suite of instruments and leather upholstery as standard.
Another American influence on Rootes was the habit of introducing frequent (often annual) updates to its cars – usually alternating between mechanical improvements and cosmetic tweaks – to maintain publicity and encourage existing owners to trade up. The full extent of these changes is set out in the timeline below, but the key developments include the introduction of a convertible option and the move to a standard floor-mounted gear lever with the Series II Sunbeam Rapier in 1958, front disc brakes on the Series III in 1959 (the Series III is widely regarded as the Rapier’s ‘sweet spot’), and a substantial facelift and mechanical modernisation on the Series IV in 1963.
By this point, the Rapier’s edge had dulled somewhat. The Mini Cooper, along with Rootes’ own Hillman Imp, had brought a fresh type of accessible sports saloon to the market. The Imp became Rootes’ preferred competition car, while the Sunbeam Stiletto applied a similar spirit to this new segment. Meanwhile, more modern executive cars like the Triumph 2000, and sportier saloons such as the Ford Cortina GT, offered contemporary and fashionable alternatives to what had originally made the Rapier appealing. Sales fell noticeably in the late 1960s, though not enough to end the model entirely – in 1967 the Audax Rapier was replaced by the striking fastback Rapier on the new ‘Arrow’ platform.
That combination of style, comfort, performance and pedigree built on mass-market underpinnings makes the Rapier a desirable classic today. They are rare cars – fewer than 70,000 were made in total, with annual production never exceeding 7000 and falling below 3000 in the model’s later years – and like all Rootes products they have lacked the widespread enthusiasm or parts support enjoyed by some other British cars of the same era. That makes it all the more important to have solid buying advice if you want to enjoy the Rapier at its best.
Sunbeam Rapier values
All Rootes cars appear significantly undervalued compared with their contemporaries, which, objectively, are not markedly better and are often far more common. There is little variation in prices between the different Series, as any gains in performance, refinement and equipment are largely offset by losses in rarity and 1950s Loewy-style charm. Convertibles do not command as high a premium as might be expected – typically only 10-15 per cent above a comparable saloon.
In terms of figures, expect to pay circa-£2000 for a tatty but workable Rapier coupe project, £5000-£7,500 for one in good to very good condition, and £10,000-£12,000 for the finest examples. Series I to Series III models are generally the ones that achieve the top end of these ranges, all else being equal, though there are never more than a few of any sort on the market at any given time.
Insurance Costs
1961 Sunbeam Rapier, £8000 value
Example quote: £109.97 or £127.97 with Agreed Value.
Quotation supplied by Lancaster Insurance. Tel: 01480 400761
Quote based on a 45-year-old marketing manager, access to another car, no claims or convictions, club member, 3000 miles per year, no modifications, living in SP2 0HL. Disclaimer: Subject to underwriting criteria. An additional charge may be payable. Authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority.
Bodywork
Rapiers, like the rest of the Audax range, have few particularly unusual or model-specific rust spots, so guidance for checking the body and structure is largely generic. That said, where and when they do corrode, it can happen rapidly. Later cars (from around 1962 onwards) are generally a little more prone to rust than earlier examples, though the difference is not dramatic. Much of the bodywork is Rapier-specific, which, given the model’s current rarity, makes repairing serious corrosion in the panels tricky. The Sunbeam Rapier Owners Club runs a scheme to source, store and sell parts, as well as offering invaluable advice and experience, so membership is worth considering even before buying. In general, it’s far better to buy on overall condition than to restrict yourself to a particular Rapier variant that will demand significant time, effort and cost to bring up to standard.
As for where to inspect, the one main Audax-specific concern is the upper section of the inner front wings, from the top of the headlamps back to the bulkhead. This, and the lower section of the inner wing running down to the radiator apron, are vulnerable to salt, dirt and water thrown up by the wheels. In the same area, but lower down, the bulkhead can rot from the inside if the windscreen seal has perished – check the condition of the seal, then inspect the footwells at the seam where they join the bulkhead for signs of rust or rusty water, and ensure the door hinges are solid. Repairing these areas requires a full body strip and extensive fabrication and welding, effectively committing the car to a complete restoration – walk away if that isn’t your plan.
The remaining advice applies to most 1950s and 1960s cars. Check the full length of the sills, lifting the cabin carpets to inspect their inner faces and the floor condition. At each corner, examine the wheel arches inside and out, and the lower parts of the wings – repair sections for these areas are available. The sills, arches and lower wings are the only areas on a Rapier where off-the-shelf repair panels exist, so moderate rust here need not be a major concern, provided the rest of the car is sound and the price reflects it.
Door skins tend to rust at the lower edges when the drain holes become blocked (as they do on all but the most carefully maintained cars), so look for paint bubbles, stiff windows from distorted frames, and patches of filler indicating previous repairs. Door skins are among the parts now hardest to source.
The front suspension sits on a subframe, so check the mounting points and all steering and suspension attachments – these usually remain sound thanks to engine oil leaks keeping the metal lightly lubricated. Rear leaf spring hangers are less fortunate, so ensure they and the surrounding metal are in good order. While there, inspect the boot floor condition.
Convertible Rapiers have two ‘chassis’ frames welded to the underside to compensate for the lack of a rigid roof. Make sure these remain solid and show no wrinkling or distortion, which would indicate weakened floors or sills.
The roof is unique to the Rapier and, while it has no particular rust traps, still requires inspection. Pay special attention to the rear window seal, which, if perished, allows water into the rear structure and the boot, and to the disappearing pillarless windows. They should operate smoothly, and you should see, feel or smell no signs of rainwater ingress from poorly fitting seals. The winders and winding mechanism are, unsurprisingly, Rapier-specific and must be in good working order.
Engine and transmission
Rootes cars were known for solid, conventional, no-nonsense mechanicals, and the Rapier is no exception. Another plus is that, since it shares much with either the Minx or the Sunbeam Alpine sports car, parts are readily available – a Rapier with a sound body but a tired engine is therefore not an intimidating prospect.
All Sunbeam Rapiers use variants of the same four-cylinder overhead-valve engine. Up until the very last model in the line, the 1965 Series V, they had just three main bearings (the Series V had five). Series I and II cars were prone to bottom-end wear if driven hard or over long motorway distances, which prompted the Series III to receive larger bearings and a stiffer crank. Most surviving Rapiers today have seen gentler use and better care than their 1960s counterparts, so these early differences are rarely a concern. That said, when inspecting an earlier example, check the oil pressure – a healthy engine should show at least 20psi at a hot idle and 45psi or more on the move. On any engine, ensure the pressure rises quickly after starting and listen for knocks or rumblings from the bottom end – or rather, their absence.
Later Rapiers with aluminium alloy cylinder heads require regular coolant changes, with the correct mixture to avoid internal corrosion or blockage, so check the radiator’s contents for colour and condition. These heads are also more susceptible to warping or damage through overheating, so look for signs of head-gasket failure. The heads themselves are not especially fragile, and problems are uncommon as long as the engine isn’t run hot. The Rapier was rarely prone to overheating in British conditions, so high temperatures usually point to sludgy coolant, blocked passages, or a failing radiator.
Rootes gearboxes of this era had a reputation for poor metallurgy, leading to issues such as broken ring-gear teeth on the flywheel, chipped gearbox cogs, and weak synchromesh. These faults are less common today, as many surviving cars have been fitted with stronger replacement parts, but they still warrant inspection. A damaged ring gear shows up as a starter motor that binds or spins freely. Clicking or rattling when pulling away indicates damaged first-gear cogs – other gears can fail too, but first is the most likely – as will reluctant engagement or the gear jumping out if the throttle is abruptly released.
Worn synchromesh makes itself known through difficult or crunchy downchanges. On column-shift cars, this may just be slack in the linkage, which can usually be adjusted out. Most Rapiers had synchromesh on the top three gears only, but later all-synchro gearboxes must be filled with engine oil rather than gear oil. Using the wrong oil will damage the bronze synchro cones, thrust washers, and bearings, so if you can’t check the gearbox yourself, ask the owner or seller.
Suspension, steering and brakes
The running gear of the Sunbeam Rapier is, in true Rootes fashion, conventional and robust. Age or neglect is the only real concern. The suspension uses coil springs and double wishbones at the front, with a live axle suspended on semi-elliptical leaf springs at the rear, and telescopic dampers all round. Perform the ‘bounce test’ to see if the dampers are still effective; if they’re worn, replacements are standard items and readily obtainable. Rear leaf springs tend to sag with age, so check that the spring hasn’t completely flattened and that the shackle isn’t hitting the underside of the body (look for missing paint or dents in the metalwork).
Early examples featured numerous grease points, and owners were expected to devote Sunday afternoons to regular sessions with the grease gun – the wishbone trunnions, hub swivel pins, track rod ends, steering idler arm and drag links all have greasing points. Verify that they show evidence of having been lubricated reasonably recently, and as you inspect, check all points for excessive play. Series IV and V Rapiers had ‘sealed for life’ fittings, but these still require inspection.
The original Series I Rapier was fitted with a pre-war cam-and-peg steering box, which was vague and tended to become even vaguer with wear. Later models all used the superior recirculating ball-type box, and many – if not most – Series Is have been upgraded with one. There will inevitably be a little play in the steering around the midpoint, but you shouldn’t need to saw at the wheel to hold a line, and the car should never wander across the road. Wear in the steering box can be adjusted out to a point, beyond which the steering becomes tight. This can also result from partially seized hub swivels, usually caused by insufficient greasing. A garage experienced with older cars can replace these.
Most Rapiers have front discs and rear drums, though the first two Series were drum-braked all round. Check the condition and integrity of both rigid and flexible brake lines, and look for dampness at the wheels or backplates, which could indicate a leaking wheel cylinder. Ensure the brake fluid is clean and at the correct level. The handbrake is theoretically self-adjusting on the rear drums but often sticks, particularly if the linkage has not been adequately lubricated.
Interior, trim and electrics
Alongside the bodywork, the interior of the Sunbeam Rapier is one of the major dealmakers or dealbreakers. Much of it is unique to the model, none of it is particularly robust, and all of it is now very scarce. It also plays a central role in the Rapier’s character and appeal, so there is little point in buying one with a tatty cabin. This is especially true for Series I and II cars with the American-style metal and plastic dashboard. Some instruments are shared with other Audax models (particularly the Alpine in later Series), which is helpful, but you want all the Rapier-specific trim – the dashboard, steering wheel, door fittings – to be present and correct. The seats, door cards, and headlining can be refurbished or reupholstered, but this must be done on a bespoke basis by a specialist trimmer, so it is very costly. New carpet sets can be ordered for a few hundred pounds.
Chrome trim, both inside and out, is central to the Rapier’s smart appearance, but replacement pieces are extremely scarce due to the low production numbers and the fact that these parts changed from Series to Series every few years. You ideally want every item present and in good condition; otherwise, you’ll be reliant on the Owners Club or spending ages hunting that elusive component at autojumbles and online auctions.
It is possible to order a new pattern-part hood for a convertible Sunbeam Rapier for just under £600, so a worn top isn’t necessarily a dealbreaker.
The electrical system is very simple and straightforward – bear in mind that all Rapiers, except the Series V, are positive earth. Make sure the wiring loom is sound, there are no dreadful ‘bodges’, the earthing points for the lamps and fusebox are secure, and all switches function correctly. This is particularly important for early cars without the walnut dash, as these parts are especially rare.
Sunbeam Rapier: our verdict
The Sunbeam Rapier is one of those cars that feels made to be a classic – it radiates the style and charm of its era, boasts a sporting pedigree for its time, performs well enough for today’s roads, and relies on straightforward mechanical components that remain easy to source. The Rapier was exceptional in its day, and it remains so well into the 21st century.
Sunbeam Rapier timeline
1955
Launch of the original Series I Sunbeam Rapier, with two-door pillarless coupe body, two-tone paint, column-shift transmission and leather upholstery. Engine is a 1360cc single-carb unit with 63bhp.
1956
Uprated engine with twin Zenith carburettors fitted, producing 68bhp.
1958
Series II Rapier released, with revised frontal styling incorporating a narrower grille (evoking the traditional Sunbeam-Talbot shape). Convertible body now available. Engine is now 1494cc and 73bhp. Recirculating ball steering box replaces original cam-and-peg type. Floor-mounted gearchange is now standard, with column-shift optional. Two-tone paint replaced by contrasting waistline colour flash. Vinyl trim now fitted in place of leather and overdrive is an option.
1959
Series III Sunbeam Rapier has many small cosmetic changes, such as redesigned front chrome trim and a narrower side flash incorporating a ‘Rapier’ script at its rear. Centre body profile is revised, giving a larger windscreen due to slimmer pillars and lower scuttle. New dashboard design with walnut veneer and padded top fitted. Engine gains eight-port aluminium alloy cylinder head. Gearbox has short-throw change. Front disc brakes now fitted, requiring a small increase in front track. Top speed is now 91mph and 0-60mph takes 16.6 seconds.
1961
The Series IIIA Rapier features upgraded drivetrain for better durability- 1592cc engine with larger-diameter crank bearings, stiffer crankshaft, larger piston gudgeon pins, uprated oil and water pumps. 1494cc engine now makes 78bhp. Stronger front anti-roll bar improves roadholding. Fresh-air heater now standard.
1963
Rapier convertible discontinued in the summer. In the autumn the Series IV Rapier is announced, with numerous mechanical upgrades introduced across the ‘Audax’ range at this point, including ‘sealed for life’ greaseless suspension and steering parts. Brake servo is now standard and springs and dampers adjusted to give a more saloon-like ride. Wheels go from 15- to 13-inches and generic Rootes wheel trims are fitted instead of bespoke Rapier ones. Front end restyled with flatter, lower-set bonnet, orange indicators incorporated into the side grilles and a smaller, convex grille fitted. Dashboard now incorporates a proper glovebox, allowing for a parcel shelf below, and a centre console is fitted.
1964
All ‘Audax’ cars, including the Rapier, receive a new all-synchro gearbox.
1965
The Series V Rapier has a five-bearing 1725cc engine, developing 91bhp. An alternator is standard equipment and the electrical system switches to negative earth.
1967
Sunbeam Rapier production ends in June, after 68,809 were built.
