Citroën DS buyer's guide

The Citroën DS has been highly desirable since launch – but there are oddball design features and pitfalls to watch out for

It’s difficult to overstate the stir the Citroën DS caused when it appeared in 1955. Most family and establishment cars still followed broadly pre-war thinking, yet here was something that looked as though it had arrived from another age entirely. Styled by sculptor Flaminio Bertoni and engineered under André Lefèbvre, the DS combined extraordinary aerodynamics with hydropneumatic suspension, power-assisted controls and a cabin unlike almost anything else on the road.

Built in Slough as well as Paris, British IDs featured walnut dashboards and locally sourced trim, while UK-built DS models gained their own distinctive details. There was also the DW, which combined DS trim with the ID’s manual gearbox before a similar idea appeared in the French-built range.

It wasn’t all new – the flat-six originally intended for the car proved too expensive to develop, so Citroën retained a four-cylinder engine derived from the Traction Avant. The money instead went into the hydraulics, which on higher-specification cars powered not only the suspension but the brakes, steering and even the clutch action in the semi-automatic transmission. For buyers who wanted the shape and ride without all the complexity, the ID offered the same basic body and suspension with simpler controls and equipment.

The Safari estate broadened the appeal further, combining the self-levelling suspension with a vast, flexible interior. It became particularly popular with people who needed to carry awkward loads without compromising the car’s ride height or comfort.

What made the DS important was not any single innovation but the way Citroën integrated so many of them into one irresistible production car. The self-levelling suspension delivered a ride quality its rivals could not approach, the inboard front disc brakes were exceptionally advanced, the aerodynamics were years ahead of the norm and the styling remained unmistakable throughout the car’s life. Conventional rivals offered none of the engineering ambition.

That is also why the DS has retained such a broad appeal. It is admired by people who would never otherwise consider an old Citroën, and its significance goes well beyond marque enthusiasm. It remains one of the clearest examples of a manufacturer deciding to rethink the family car from first principles rather than simply improve what already existed.

Values

Values vary enormously according to specification, originality and body style. The simpler left-hand-drive D Special and D Super models remain the most accessible way into the range, with usable cars generally starting in the mid-teens and better examples moving towards £20,000.

A good DS saloon, particularly a Pallas, typically sits in the £20,000-30,000 bracket, with the strongest DS21 and DS23 cars higher still. Fuel-injected cars, desirable right-hand-drive examples and well-restored Slough-built cars can command a premium, while Safaris occupy their own market because of their rarity and practicality.

True Décapotable convertibles are a completely separate proposition and can be worth several times as much as an equivalent saloon, so provenance is critical. Whatever version you choose, structural condition and evidence of specialist maintenance matter more than chasing the most prestigious badge on the boot.

Bodywork

The shell of a DS is similar to that of a Rover P6, in that all the panels hang from an internal structural frame. As such, how it looks on the outside really isn’t the biggest issue; it’s what’s underneath that matters. First thing to do is remove the rear wings to assess the condition underneath. It’s one bolt each and can be done with the wheelbrace as they have to come off to change a rear wheel. If the owner’s reluctant, alarm bells should ring.

Sills and boot floors can rust, so check thoroughly for any crusting or swelling – the latter area supports the trailing arm mounts, so damage here is particularly serious. Likewise roof gutters are a known weak spot. The glassfibre roof can rub against the paint in the gutters and trapped water then corrodes the structure from the inside. Repair means removing the screen and roof, so serious corrosion here is expensive to put right. Push the top of the screen; if that isn’t solid, further investigation is essential.

Early cars have the most spot welds, making them likely to be the best survivors. Front suspension mountings can crack around the wishbone carrier bolts, which can sound like a twig snapping under cornering. Repairs range from localised work to major structural reconstruction depending on how badly they have deteriorated.

Finally, don’t worry about pitted chrome – apart from the Pallas boot hinges and the door handles, all the brightwork is stainless steel. It won’t rust, but careless handling can cause damage.

Engine and transmission

All DSs and IDs came with engines of the same family, in a choice of three sizes and multiple states of tune. The engine had started life in 1934 in the Traction Avant and was modernised with a hemi head and improved manifolds for the DS. Starting in 1911cc form, it expanded to 2175cc and then 2347cc. Both the 2.1 and 2.3 were also available with electronic fuel injection. They’re generally reliable engines and capable of very high mileages, but there are rough examples which need major work far sooner.

The compression should be between 120 and 140psi on each cylinder, so check this if you can. Oil leaks around the base of the distributor can be camshaft seals, and these require the separation of engine and transmission to fit. Noisy tappets could either mean valves need adjusting or that the cam and followers are worn, so if in doubt have an expert check it. On fuel-injected engines the air intake needs removing to access the tappets. Timing chains can stretch, so check play by moving the main pulley. If there’s play it’s an engine-out job to replace the chain.

Big-end failure is most common on the 2.3 – the smaller the engine, the more reliable it tends to be in service.

There are, broadly, two types of transmission available on DS and ID models. There’s a standard manual, with the option of four or five gears depending upon specification and model, and then there is the BVH ‘clutchless’ semi-automatic system many associate with the DS.

In truth, this is a rarer transmission and it can be more complicated. Internal leaks can lead to the car jumping out of second or third, while a sticking valve in the clutch selector can affect selection of first and reverse. The clutch selector plate atop the gearbox can leak, causing contamination of the gear oil with LHM. Check thoroughly for leaks, and also check the transmission fluid regularly to ensure it’s not been contaminated.

Suspension, steering and brakes

The suspension system is one of the D-Series’ main attractions, though many who lack experience with Citroën will write it off as being overly complicated. It really isn’t – especially in the case of the ID, which lacks high-pressure braking and powered steering and so has a hydraulic system entirely devoted to its suspension. Check it rises and lowers from each height, and listen for a regular tick from the hydraulic pump every 30 seconds. Any more frequently and there could be a leak, so have the car checked over.

In standard height, push each corner down in turn. It should sink willingly and rise softly, very unlike a coil-sprung car. If it’s firm that could indicate the need for new spheres. Be careful to use the slam panel for this test and not the wings at the front, as they can dent. Sphere changes are often advised at roughly five-year intervals, but condition matters more than the calendar.

Early cars used red LHS hydraulic fluid and later cars switched to green LHM. Many earlier cars have been converted, so don’t assume the fluid from the car’s age alone: confirm exactly what system it is running before topping up or carrying out any work.

There are two braking systems for these cars – that used on the DS and that used on the ID – though all Safaris, while strictly IDs, used the DS braking system.

Early IDs used an orthodox braking system with a conventional master cylinder. Later models used the same high-pressure setup as the more luxurious DS, which utilised the same hydraulic system as the suspension. In both cases inboard discs were used at the front with hub-mounted drums at the rear, though the system in the DS was more effective. Not all cars used the mushroom-shaped button for the brakes; British cars had mushrooms on all specifications, but left-hand-drive IDs used a conventional pedal.

Interior and electrics

Everything is available, at a cost, regardless of colour or trim. Many IDs and lower-specification DSs have been upgraded to Pallas trim, given that it’s a relatively simple way to make a car look more upmarket.

Original trim is generally more interesting to buyers, especially on low-specification IDs. Don’t worry too much about damage to cloth given the ease of replacement, but do make sure the carpets are dry and that there’s no water ingress through the screen and window seals.

While this guide is focused on saloons rather than the hugely valuable Décapotable convertibles, if you’re looking at a true Décapotable or a conversion it’s essential to check the condition of the hood.

Electrical equipment is not the most intimidating part of a DS, but it still deserves a complete function check. Make sure the lighting, instruments, heater fan and switchgear all work, and pay particular attention to non-standard wiring added during restoration or later ownership.

Our verdict

The DS and ID have always intimidated some buyers because of their perceived complexity, but there is strong specialist and club support and much of the car is less mysterious once you understand how the systems work. Even so, this is not a model to buy casually: an expert inspection is worthwhile, particularly if you have no previous experience of D-Series Citroëns.

The Citroën Car Club is full of expertise and enthusiasm, and joining before buying makes sense. There will usually be owners and specialists who can help assess a prospective purchase and advise on future maintenance.

For value and usability, a late ID-based model such as a D Special or D Super – ideally a D Super 5 with the five-speed gearbox – remains a very appealing choice. Pallas cars carry a premium, while Slough-built cars are prized for their rarity, right-hand drive and British-specific details. Left-hand-drive cars imported from mainland Europe can offer particularly good value.

The important thing is not to be frightened by the hydraulics and then ignore the structure. Buy a sound car with evidence of knowledgeable maintenance and the DS remains what it has always been: one of the most distinctive, comfortable and technically fascinating classics you can own.